Jan Bartek – AncientPages.com – During the excavation of the Kani Koter cemetery, located on the eastern border of what was once the Assyrian Empire, scientists uncovered a fascinating find that sheds light on cosmetic practices and material culture in the Ancient Near East.
Map showing the Kani Koter site (top center). Credit: A. Squitieri
This discovery was made by an international team of researchers who focused on black eye makeup used between the 9th and 7th centuries B.C. in what is now northwestern Iran. Unlike the typical lead-based kohl prevalent across the region at that time, this makeup contained natural graphite and manganese oxide.
Dr. Silvia Amicone led the research from the Archaeometry working group at the University of Tübingen. The team identified this unique formula through analysis of samples collected from the Kani Koter cemetery. Dr. Shelir Amelirad from Heidelberg University noted that various personal grooming items were found during the excavation, including mirrors, kohl application tools, and a ceramic vessel filled with black powder—all of which displayed elements characteristic of Assyrian style. The research team employed several scientific techniques to further analyze these findings.
“What we found revealed a completely new kohl formula,” says Silvia Amicone. “Instead of lead or organic ingredients, which are typically found in the formulas of the time, graphite was used here, which adheres well to the skin and may have given it a strikingly shimmering metallic appearance.” No organic substances were discovered in the makeup mixture.
The cosmetics containers from Estark–Joshaqan and Kani Koter. Credit: Amelirad & Azizi
“We cannot say today whether such ingredients were deliberately omitted or whether they decomposed over time,” adds Amicone.
The utilization of manganese oxide and natural graphite highlights the innovative approach to leveraging locally available resources in the mineral-rich Zagros Mountains. This practice demonstrates an effective use of regional materials, showcasing both resourcefulness and a deep understanding of the area’s geological wealth.
Cosmetic jar from the Kani Koter site. Credit: Amelirad & Azizi. DOI: 10.1080/05786967.2019.1633240
“This discovery adds new details to our knowledge of personal adornment and appearance in the ancient world. In particular, we learn more about the cultural life of the elites in the area between Assyria and Iran,” Amicone says.
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Professor Dr. h.c. (Dōshisha) Karla Pollmann, the president of the University of Tübingen, commented that the discovery opens a window into an earlier world. “By using modern scientific methods, our researchers are constantly adding new building blocks to our knowledge of the cultural development of mankind,” she said.
The study was published in the journal Archaeometry
Written by Jan Bartek – AncientPages.com Staff Writer
