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What\u2019s a vegetarian to do when the cold forecast and a skeletal greenmarket conspire to drive her into the arms of Marcella Hazan\u2019s Bolognese<\/a> or the red-wine braised short ribs of yesteryear? Well, a few years into my whole \u201cweekday vegetarian\u201d thing<\/a>, I discovered that a good starting point for addressing this problem is the humble mushroom. As far as I can tell, the whole lot of them \u2014 from grocery store buttons to speciality market maitakes \u2014 seem to be the only thing in the vegetable kingdom that can approximate the same kind of meaty umami I crave when the mercury dips, especially when they are cooked down to a concentrated crisp.<\/p>\n To be filed under \u201cI\u2019ve Never Meet a Tart I Didn\u2019t Love,\u201d here is this Mushroom-and-Chives take, a winter cousin of spring\u2019s Asparagus Tart<\/a>, and just as straightforwardly stunning. Serve it with a salad, and you\u2019ve got yourself a go-to comfort food menu for winter.<\/p>\n Mushroom Tart with Chives<\/strong> Note: Be sure to leave a few hours for your puff pastry to thaw.<\/em><\/p>\n 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as necessary Heat the oven to 400\u00b0F.<\/p>\n Add olive oil, mushrooms, salt, and pepper, to a large skillet set over medium heat and cook until mushrooms have lost a significant amount of moisture. (It\u2019s okay if they seem piled up too high in the pan, they will shrink as they cook.) Push the mushrooms to the perimeter of the pan, then add onion and garlic, plus more oil if it looks dry, and cook another 3 minutes, stirring often so the garlic doesn\u2019t burn.<\/p>\n While the mushrooms are cooking down, roll out the puff pastry on a flour-dusted surface and transfer to a parchment-paper-lined baking sheet. Using a sharp knife, lightly draw\/score a rectangle in the middle of the pastry (without slicing through), leaving a one-inch border. (This will help the sides puff up when baking.) Using your fingers or a pastry brush, brush the perimeter of the puff pastry with the whisked egg. In a small mixing bowl, combine the cr\u00e8me fra\u00eeche (or ricotta), chives, any remaining egg, salt, and pepper, and, using a rubber spatula, spread the mixture in the drawn rectangle. (It\u2019s okay if you go outside the lines a little!)<\/p>\n Scoop the mushroom-onion mixture on top, evenly dividing everything, then top with Parm. Bake for 20-25 minutes until pastry is golden and puffy and the mushrooms look shriveled. Serve warm or at room temperature.<\/p>\n Thank you, Jenny<\/a>! Follow her newsletter here<\/a>, if you\u2019d like.<\/strong><\/p>\n P.S. A squash ricotta tart<\/a>, three no-fuss recipes for winter<\/a>, and a pantry pasta for busy weeknights<\/a>.<\/p>\n
by Jenny Rosenstrach<\/p>\n
20 ounces mixed mushrooms (I used baby Bellas, shiitake, and oyster here), finely chopped
kosher salt and pepper
1 yellow onion, sliced
1 clove, garlic
1 14-ounce frozen puff pastry (such as Dufour brand), thawed
1 egg, whisked
1\/2 cup ricotta or cr\u00e8me fra\u00eeche
2 tablespoons chives
1\/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan<\/p>\n